Sugar Pine: A Charming Gem in a Unique Colorado Neighborhood

Discovering Sugar Pine Grocery is the culinary highlight of my fall. This is not an overstatement, and my three visits and counting should make it clear that I’ve developed a full blown obsession. But let me back up…

One afternoon I was kid-free, thanks to my wonderful mother, and found myself scrounging for something to do. Anything really, to feel like I’d achieved “me time” in this two hour reprieve. After a somewhat disappointing non-hike with my dog Stella – I had geared up for leaf-peeping and elevation gain, toting a camelback loaded with H20 and snacks, my hiking boots ready for action, only to find my Google-researched destination that day was a perfectly flat lakeside stroll through a neighborhood – I was bummed out. No other way to say it. Stella looked disappointed too, accustomed to hiking mountainous terrain with me on a regular basis. Time was ticking and I knew there was no way to divert to a familiar trail and squeeze in a serious hike at that point. I was also hungry. Where could I go to shake off my frustration, and possibly grab a tasty bite?

I remembered fondly the little community of Prospect, nestled in the southeast corner of Longmont, with its colorful and widely varied architecture, cute shops, and grassy open spaces often graced with a food truck or two. This oasis was only minutes away. Reinvigorated, I tossed my gear into my Subaru, shedding the camelback and boots in favor of flip flops. I parked Stella in the back seat, and took off.

Cruising through Prospect I was delighted to see fall and Halloween decorations everywhere, as well as American flags proudly waving and yard signs promoting tolerance and respect for people of all races and creeds. Inflatable ghouls, skeletons, black cats, and spooky spiderwebs adorned many a shrub, tree, and porch. My drive around the small neighborhood yielded no food trucks, to my disappointment, but I enjoyed the abundance of vivid red and orange fall leaves covering the sidewalks. I decided to park and stroll, to gain a better look at the residents’ festive decorations. As I meandered, Stella frolicked beside me, her paws crunching in the leaves. I recalled that somewhere up ahead was a barbecue joint that had pretty good brisket, last time I visited. My stomach grumbled and I was pleased to finally have a mission.

Delicious smells teased my nose as I approached the corner of Coffman Street and Tenacity Drive. Did I mention Prospect has brilliantly named drives, such as Tempted Ways, Confidence, and Half Measures? Along with Neon Forest and Incorrigible Circle. If you visit the Prospect Website, they are the self-proclaimed “Coolest Neighborhood in America” and I have to agree – the experimental architecture is of every flavor and of such unique design, I’ve been enamored of this place since they built it. But I digress. Back to the amazing aromas that led me by the nose to the now former location of the Rib House in Prospect. That business, I learned, shuttered years ago, to be replaced by Sugar Pine Grocery and Catering. This stumped me for a moment, my brisket craving full-blown after all the walking. Yet as I took in the Sugar Pine storefront I was optimistic about this new find. If you could judge a book by its cover, this small, cozy shop promised good food, hospitality, and fresh produce and bakery treats.

Sugar Pine’s patio was fully decorated for fall, with sheaves of corn stalks, pumpkins, wrought iron tables and red umbrellas, delicate white string lights, and heat lamps at the ready for outdoor diners. A sandwich board sign announced “Lobster Roll Special today”, which clinched it for me. In years past, I had the habit of visiting Maine and Nova Scotia every summer, so know a good lobster roll when I see one. Those travels were log ago and I had yet to find a rave-worthy roll in my land-locked Colorado home.

With some effort, I hooked Stella’s leash to the shop’s patio fence. She was convinced she was entitled to go in and put up a bit of a protest. Once she was settled I eagerly stepped inside to order.

Just inside the door I found a center table piled high with organic produce such as fresh pears, peaches, apples, fingerling potatoes, and vividly striped heirloom tomatoes. Baked goods bookended the produce and I immediately began stacking my impulse purchases on the amused cashier’s counter: peanut butter cookies with a chocolate drop in the center, lemon cake, walnut brownies, and even a baked bone-shaped biscuit for my dog. Of course I added a few peaches and a pile of tomatoes, which were firm and bursting with fragrance. The micro cherry tomatoes were sweet flavor bombs (I had to eat a handful right after purchasing).

I ordered the Maine Lobster Roll, noting for a future return that Connecticut style, served warm in a buttery seasoning, was also available. Some day I’d have to try one, but I’m a diehard Maine roll fan. In my opinion, you can’t beat cold lobster salad with a hint of mayo, squeeze of lemon, sprinkle of fresh herbs, and a toasted butter split roll.

A mere five minute wait later and I was dining on just that – an excellent execution of a classic Maine Lobster Roll. They were generous with the lobster meat: claws, knuckles, sweet delectable bits. Expert level on the mayo and herb application (not too much, just enough to hold the whole enterprise together), and the warm bread was soft on the inside with the perfect buttery crunch on the outside. Topped with a squeeze of fresh lemon for tang, and I had to remember to slow down and pace myself instead of inhaling the goodness.

To date I’ve returned to Sugar Pine three times, and each and every time the lobster roll is what I order. To go I’ll take the cookies and produce and fancy cheeses – pro tip: try the herbed chevre or truffled salami in their cold case, or an entree of braised short rib with whipped potatoes – but the Maine roll is what keeps me coming back.

I had the pleasure of meeting the owner, Heather, during one of my visits. Much like her shop, she is cheerful, unassuming, and welcoming. I told her enthusiastically of my obsession with her lobster roll, which she informed me used to be an occasional special and is now permanent on their menu. I almost did a happy jig when she shared that.

At last visit I discovered they’d acquired their liquor license.  I convinced my mom to leave the house that day to join me for my now weekly lobster roll ritual and we were pleasantly surprised by the beverage menu. The addition of a sparkling flute of prosecco to our meal was a lovely compliment to the sweet lobster as was the side of hand cut shoestring French fries (also new).

Sugar Pine has figured out the secret formula for a perfect, cozy, neighborhood bistro. Their menu, ambiance, location, and bakery treats all add up to pure magic.